This weeks blog is going to have an Animoto I made showcasing a few of my "finished products" !!
~Quote to live By~
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
~Tole Painting Explaination~
Tole and Decorative Painting is the painting of patterns straight onto materials like wood or metal. First you transfer the pattern onto the surface you want to paint, and then paint over the pattern. Simplicity is the secret of tole and decorative painting!
MATERIALS NEEDED:
• Craft Pattern
• Transfer paper or carbon paper
• Pencil
• Project surface to paint (wood, metal, paper, ceramic, glass, fabric, candle, etc.)
• Paints - Acrylic, oil or specialty paints
• Paint brushes (see types below)
• Sealer or basecoat
• Varnish
• Palette
• Water
• Water basin
• Paper towels
INSTRUCTIONS:
• You can enlarge or reduce your craft pattern on a copy machine to get just the size you need for your project surface.
• Prepare your project surface with sealer or basecoat if needed. Wash fabrics before painting.
• To transfer your craft pattern to project surface (wood, metal, paper, fabric, candle or ceramic) use transfer paper and pencil. Place transfer paper with transfer side down directly on your project surface. Next place your craft pattern on top of the transfer paper, and begin tracing over the pattern with a pencil. Remove transfer paper to view your transfer. If you have chosen a glass project surface, place your pattern underneath the glass (flat surface) or inside the glass container (round surface) to show through. (To make your own transfer paper, rub the edge of a soft-lead pencil or dust-free chalk across a sheet of vellum or tracing paper).
• Paint your design (see helpful tips below), and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Apply varnish, following manufacturer's instructions.
BRUSHES:
• Flat brushes are excellent for basecoating, floating and sideloading color.
• Round brushes are excellent for strokework and detail painting.
• Liner brushes are used for detail painting, such as vines, cross-hatching and other linework techniques.
• Filbert brushes are a favorite for basecoating, floating and creating leaves.
• Angle Shader brushes are preferred for small, tight areas, floating and side-loading.
• Dagger or Striper brushes produce beautiful lines and ribbon effects.
• Triangle, Miracle, Wedge or Feather brushes are primarily used for fur and textured effects, and creating leaves.
• Rake or Comb brushes will produce the effects of hair, fur or parallel lines to be used in texture or patterns.
• Deerfoot Stippler brushes are primarily used to produce the effect of foliage or short fur.
• Fan brushes are commonly used to produce foliage and fur, for blending colors and spattering paint.
• Mop brushes are used to blend and soften color, or to apply color or varnish.
• Extended Bristle brushes hold more water and pigment, which means you will get a longer stroke.
• Blender brushes produce a softer stippling effect, and can be used to blend colors.
BRUSH TECHNIQUES:
Side Loading - Side loading (also referred to as floating, floating color, highlighting or shading) is the single technique most associated with decorative painting. Side loading is the technique of loading your brush with paint on one side, and water (or water substitute) on the opposite side. When blended, the paint on the brush will graduate smoothly from full strength on the side the paint was loaded to water only on the opposite edge. This technique is used to give depth to your painting by adding highlights and shading.
Double Loading - Double loading a brush is a fast and effective way to achieve dimension. The brush is loaded with two distinct colors, one on each side of the brush. When the colors are blended on the palette, each side of the brush maintains its distinct color with a gradual blending of the two colors in the center.
Multiloading - Unlike traditional double loading, the entire brush is fully loaded with the first color. The second color is loaded on a single side. The third color is loaded onto the brush by dipping the tip of the brush into the paint. Do not blend the colors. All three colors should be visible and distinct on the loaded brush.
TIPS:
• Plastic coffee stirrers are perfect for stirring paint.
• To create perfectly straight painted lines on a flat wood surface, score lines in the wood using a stylus and a see-through ruler. Load a liner brush with thinned paint and follow the depressions created in the wood by the stylus.
• Use toothpicks for applying paint to fine details, making tiny dots or applying color in hard to reach areas of your project.
• To avoid accidentally swiping a sleeve across a freshly painted surface, place your supplies to your painting-hand side. This will eliminate the need to reach across your painting, and everything you need will be within easy reach.
• Save the shiny "backs" from address labels or stickers, and use them for paper palettes.
• If you have a lot of edges or corners of a project to paint, simplify the process by loading up a small sponge with your paint and swiping it down the edge.
• When in doubt about how a certain color or stroke will look on your painting, place a piece of clear acetate over the painting, then apply the stroke or color to the acetate.
• When bottles of acrylic paints start getting old and have been used frequently, little bits of hardened paint can get inside the bottles. Cut out a small square of pantyhose or nylon, stretch it over the top of the bottle, and replace the cap. It acts as a strainer and you'll get much more mileage out of the bottle.
• To save money on palette paper, use a dry marker board, a piece of smooth counter top or a smooth glass cutting board as a palette. When finished painting, let the paint dry and scrape with a razor blade. Old ceramic tile can be used as a painting palette as well (glazed with no texture in it). Simply wipe/wash clean with water when its surface is fully used.
• When setting up painting space, keep a bar of ivory soap on top of a paper towel, next to your water container. This is for washing out your brushes as you finish with them.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
• Craft Pattern
• Transfer paper or carbon paper
• Pencil
• Project surface to paint (wood, metal, paper, ceramic, glass, fabric, candle, etc.)
• Paints - Acrylic, oil or specialty paints
• Paint brushes (see types below)
• Sealer or basecoat
• Varnish
• Palette
• Water
• Water basin
• Paper towels
INSTRUCTIONS:
• You can enlarge or reduce your craft pattern on a copy machine to get just the size you need for your project surface.
• Prepare your project surface with sealer or basecoat if needed. Wash fabrics before painting.
• To transfer your craft pattern to project surface (wood, metal, paper, fabric, candle or ceramic) use transfer paper and pencil. Place transfer paper with transfer side down directly on your project surface. Next place your craft pattern on top of the transfer paper, and begin tracing over the pattern with a pencil. Remove transfer paper to view your transfer. If you have chosen a glass project surface, place your pattern underneath the glass (flat surface) or inside the glass container (round surface) to show through. (To make your own transfer paper, rub the edge of a soft-lead pencil or dust-free chalk across a sheet of vellum or tracing paper).
• Paint your design (see helpful tips below), and allow to dry thoroughly.
• Apply varnish, following manufacturer's instructions.
BRUSHES:
• Flat brushes are excellent for basecoating, floating and sideloading color.
• Round brushes are excellent for strokework and detail painting.
• Liner brushes are used for detail painting, such as vines, cross-hatching and other linework techniques.
• Filbert brushes are a favorite for basecoating, floating and creating leaves.
• Angle Shader brushes are preferred for small, tight areas, floating and side-loading.
• Dagger or Striper brushes produce beautiful lines and ribbon effects.
• Triangle, Miracle, Wedge or Feather brushes are primarily used for fur and textured effects, and creating leaves.
• Rake or Comb brushes will produce the effects of hair, fur or parallel lines to be used in texture or patterns.
• Deerfoot Stippler brushes are primarily used to produce the effect of foliage or short fur.
• Fan brushes are commonly used to produce foliage and fur, for blending colors and spattering paint.
• Mop brushes are used to blend and soften color, or to apply color or varnish.
• Extended Bristle brushes hold more water and pigment, which means you will get a longer stroke.
• Blender brushes produce a softer stippling effect, and can be used to blend colors.
BRUSH TECHNIQUES:
Side Loading - Side loading (also referred to as floating, floating color, highlighting or shading) is the single technique most associated with decorative painting. Side loading is the technique of loading your brush with paint on one side, and water (or water substitute) on the opposite side. When blended, the paint on the brush will graduate smoothly from full strength on the side the paint was loaded to water only on the opposite edge. This technique is used to give depth to your painting by adding highlights and shading.
Double Loading - Double loading a brush is a fast and effective way to achieve dimension. The brush is loaded with two distinct colors, one on each side of the brush. When the colors are blended on the palette, each side of the brush maintains its distinct color with a gradual blending of the two colors in the center.
Multiloading - Unlike traditional double loading, the entire brush is fully loaded with the first color. The second color is loaded on a single side. The third color is loaded onto the brush by dipping the tip of the brush into the paint. Do not blend the colors. All three colors should be visible and distinct on the loaded brush.
TIPS:
• Plastic coffee stirrers are perfect for stirring paint.
• To create perfectly straight painted lines on a flat wood surface, score lines in the wood using a stylus and a see-through ruler. Load a liner brush with thinned paint and follow the depressions created in the wood by the stylus.
• Use toothpicks for applying paint to fine details, making tiny dots or applying color in hard to reach areas of your project.
• To avoid accidentally swiping a sleeve across a freshly painted surface, place your supplies to your painting-hand side. This will eliminate the need to reach across your painting, and everything you need will be within easy reach.
• Save the shiny "backs" from address labels or stickers, and use them for paper palettes.
• If you have a lot of edges or corners of a project to paint, simplify the process by loading up a small sponge with your paint and swiping it down the edge.
• When in doubt about how a certain color or stroke will look on your painting, place a piece of clear acetate over the painting, then apply the stroke or color to the acetate.
• When bottles of acrylic paints start getting old and have been used frequently, little bits of hardened paint can get inside the bottles. Cut out a small square of pantyhose or nylon, stretch it over the top of the bottle, and replace the cap. It acts as a strainer and you'll get much more mileage out of the bottle.
• To save money on palette paper, use a dry marker board, a piece of smooth counter top or a smooth glass cutting board as a palette. When finished painting, let the paint dry and scrape with a razor blade. Old ceramic tile can be used as a painting palette as well (glazed with no texture in it). Simply wipe/wash clean with water when its surface is fully used.
• When setting up painting space, keep a bar of ivory soap on top of a paper towel, next to your water container. This is for washing out your brushes as you finish with them.
Friday, August 6, 2010
~Adding the Finishing Touches"
~Adding the "finishing touches" to your product~
Adding the extra details to a finished "product" always makes a difference to me. I sometimes don't like what I have painted until I add some chalking, lining, or highlights. I will explain what that means.
Chalking ~ Chalk around the edges to highlight words, create depth on an object, or outline to add different effects.
Aging paper with chalk. I love to make my paper look old just by using chalk. I use a combination of brown and black. Tear the edges of the paper and blend the chalk in, usually darkest on the edges fading toward the middle. Don’t forget you can also chalk the side-edge of the paper, not just the surface.
*Frugal tip: I have found that generic Q-tips hold together better than name-brand, and eye shadow applicators work just as well as the marketed chalk applicators. Also alligator clips found at the hardware store are just as good as chalk applicator clips.
Lining ~ Is outlining to add detail. Examples would be to outline the eye brows as I did on the 4th of July Dude, or outlining the eyes. Adding some "stitching" around an object.
Practice double and triple loading your paintbrush and then again practicing the basic strokes, according to the zestit.com website. This will provide shading and delightful nuances in your decorative pieces. This is a quick technique to place highlights and shadowing in your art.
Practice with a liner brush until you feel in control. Start by writing your name and just doodling with the brush. You need to be relaxed but in control. The paint needs to flow and so does your arm and wrist. Try swirls and figure of eights, long, loose comma strokes and flowing 'S's.
Highlighting ~ Many decorative painting techniques use a basecoat or main color with shading and highlighting colors to create the depth and dimension that characterizes decorative painting. While shading and highlighting is a simple concept, choosing the correct shading and highlighting colors can be confusing. I usually follow the directions or change to what I like. Even if you follow the directions exactly, no finished "product" is the same.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
~Tole Painting Links~
This week I decided to add some great links. These links have ideas, books, supplies and lots more to be used with Tole Painting..
Enjoy!!!
Link to Brush
Awesome Links:
Artist's Club: Books, supplies, and more for tole and decorative painters.
http://www.artistsclub.com/index.cfm
The Decorative Painting Store: Tole & Decorative Painting Books & Supplies.
http://www.decorativepaintingstore.com/
Friends Patterns: They carry unique sweatshirts and original tole painting and craft patterns.
http://friendspatterns.com/
Traditional Tole Painting
http://www.zest-it.com/tole.htm
Brush Stoke Techniques
http://www.your-decorative-painting-resource.com/brush-stroke-basics.html
Enjoy!!!
Link to Brush
Awesome Links:
Artist's Club: Books, supplies, and more for tole and decorative painters.
http://www.artistsclub.com/index.cfm
The Decorative Painting Store: Tole & Decorative Painting Books & Supplies.
http://www.decorativepaintingstore.com/
Friends Patterns: They carry unique sweatshirts and original tole painting and craft patterns.
http://friendspatterns.com/
Traditional Tole Painting
http://www.zest-it.com/tole.htm
Brush Stoke Techniques
http://www.your-decorative-painting-resource.com/brush-stroke-basics.html
Friday, July 23, 2010
~What is Tole Painting??~
What is Tole Painting?? I should have explained this in my first post, sorry.
The word "Tole" comes from the French, meaning lacquered or enameld metal-ware, often gilded. It also meand table or board. According to collectors, tole painting became popular in the 18th century. The term was originally used to describe folk art painting on tin or other metalwork. Nowadays, the term is used to describe decorative painting on a variety of surfaces. This definition came from www.craftsitedirectory.com/tolepaintin. There is a variety of names that people refer to tole painting as: folk art, tole painting, rustic painting, country painting, etc.
I usually only paint on wood. However, I have tried to paint on glass bottles and canvas bags. I did not like the results or finished product on either, so I am sticking to painting on wood.
There is also a variety of brush techniques and paints that I use. In the following weeks, I will add those to my blog. I will also put some of my finished results ( I call them PRODUCT) on my blog.
The word "Tole" comes from the French, meaning lacquered or enameld metal-ware, often gilded. It also meand table or board. According to collectors, tole painting became popular in the 18th century. The term was originally used to describe folk art painting on tin or other metalwork. Nowadays, the term is used to describe decorative painting on a variety of surfaces. This definition came from www.craftsitedirectory.com/tolepaintin. There is a variety of names that people refer to tole painting as: folk art, tole painting, rustic painting, country painting, etc.
I usually only paint on wood. However, I have tried to paint on glass bottles and canvas bags. I did not like the results or finished product on either, so I am sticking to painting on wood.
There is also a variety of brush techniques and paints that I use. In the following weeks, I will add those to my blog. I will also put some of my finished results ( I call them PRODUCT) on my blog.
Side loading an angle brush
This video will demonstrate how to side load an angle brush for tole painting.
Friday, July 16, 2010
~Work in Progress~
This 4th of July project is a work in progress. I have all the pieces painted and spayed with a finishing spray. With the finishing spray, I can hang my wreath outside and it will be protected from the weather. As you can see, lots of pieces went into the 4th of July wreath. The guy was the most challenging, his pants gave me the most fits... so to speak. I now have an almost finished "product". YEA!! I will post the pictures of "work in progress" and then the finished product picture.
Putting the project together~
Finished Product all put together!!!
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